My Favorite Keyboard Shortcuts for Photoshop

I saw an article today that listed 500 keyboard commands for Photoshop. A bit overwhelming for me, so here are a few of my personal favorite Photoshop keyboard commands. Saves time when you don’t have to use a mouse! (These are for the Mac – use the <control> key in place of the <command> key on the PC.

© David Saffir

<command> S – save (be sure you are saving under correct file name!)

<command> – A – select all

<command> T – free transform

<command> minus – zoom out

<command> plus – zoom in

<command> H – shows or hides the selection (like marching ants)

<command> Z – undo (toggles back one step, forward one step)

<command><option) Z – undo, repeats goes back through history steps

Press <space bar> to temporarily use hand tool (except for text mode)

<left bracket> – makes brush smaller

<right bracket> – makes brush larger

<shift+bracket> makes brush harder or softer

Tab – hides all panels and toolbar

<Shift + Tab> – hides all except toolbar

<control> Tab – switch between open images

Tool selection:

D – selects default colors in toolbar

F – toggles between full screen view,

G – gradient tool

J – Spot healing, patch tool, etc

L – lasso tool

M – marquee selection tool

S – stamp tools, like clone stamp

X – switches foreground color to background color

(If you hold the shift key, and press a tool selection letter,

you can “scroll” through the tool options under that toolbar button.)

Here’s a link to our upcoming workshop where we will be giving away a FREE copy of Nix Silver Efex Pro software: Black & White Photography and Silver Efex Pro from Nik Software – David Saffir instructor $79 Thursday, January 13th – 6:30pm to 9:30pm SCV Center for Photography, Santa Clarita

Must-Have Skills for Photographers, New Post

I have a new post on the Pro Photo Blog (link) “Must Have Skills for Photographers: Enlarging Images and Large-Format Printing

New Resource! Picture Paramedic: Digital Image Repair, Resuscitation, and Retouching

I provide custom image repair and resuscitation. I have “treated” literally thousands of images from other photographers – including scans from film,
digital raw files, and previously processed image files – for web, exhibition, gallery, or personal use. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Please contact me for details and pricing!!

email: davidsaffir@mac.com

I also have a new web page: PictureParamedic.com

Camera Test: The Leica S2

Camera Test: Leica S2 Medium Format Camera

Not very long after I wrote my review of the new Mamiya DM camera with the DM56 digital back, I received a phone call from David Farkas of Dale Photo & Digital in Hollywood, Florida.

“Would I like to test the Leica S2 medium format camera?” What a question!

So, around the end of June two boxes arrive on my doorstep – one with the camera, and the other with a Leica SF 58 flash unit. Didn’t expect the latter; a very pleasant surprise. A 70mm f/ 2.5 lens came with the camera.

The Leica S2 Camera

My first impression out of the box was “rock solid”. The camera fits the hand very well, and feels a bit like a 35mm DSLR on steroids. Weight is very reasonable, and controls come to hand easily and naturally. The camera is coated throughout – I hesitate to say “rubberized” – that’s not exactly what it is – it provides a non-slip surface that is near-perfect in texture and grip traction.

Image Courtesy of Leica Camera

Camera layout is unique. The exterior is clean, almost minimalist, and one clearly sees the Leica heritage of simplicity in its design. It facilitates use of the most important functions; other adjustments and settings are available through on-screen menus displayed on the 3” LCD.

A collateral benefit of this is that the camera body has far fewer openings than other DSLR cameras. I didn’t try this, of course, but I’ve heard stories about demonstrations where the rep poured a glass of water over the camera – no ill effects reported.

The camera weighs about 3 pounds; a little heavier than, say, a Nikon D3x. Keep in mind that the camera does not come with a vertical grip; that is an add-on. It adds battery capacity, and I’m sure the camera is noticeably heavier when equipped this way. I did not try this accessory.

The camera body grip is very good. No fatigue at all during long photo shoots. On-camera controls come to hand very naturally.

The S2 uses a removable, internal battery that is charged outside the camera. Battery life is very good – I went an entire day shooting without changing batteries. The charger is as simple as it gets – there is a small socket on the battery – the charger cord is inserted, and the charging unit is plugged in.

The viewfinder is bright, and the readouts are easy on the eye. The autofocus “crosshairs” don’t obscure the subject, and do a very nice job when using manual focus.

There are two displays on the camera – a 3” LCD on the back, and an OLED on the top of the camera, near the shutter button.

The LCD is much easier to see in bright light, or even direct sunlight, than most. The OLED readout is bright and colorful, but suffers a bit in harsh light.

Although some have said that the shutter button is “over sensitive” I just didn’t have that experience; in fact, just the opposite. Very good tactile feedback, totally controllable. Shutter activation is quiet. By the way, this camera provides the option of setting the self-timer to flip up the mirror, wait, and take the shot. Sweet.

The rear LCD is surrounded by four “soft” buttons. These drive menu choices on the camera. There are four main sections, as you can see in the illustration above. I don’t have the room here for a detailed description; suffice to say that the menus are logically grouped and nested.


I’ve thought a bit about Leica’s decision to put most camera options in this part of the system. The S2 photographer will typically set the camera up ahead of time, and attend to exposure during a shoot. Given that most MF cameras are not intended for, and are not going to be used in photojournalism, this works fine for me.

Shooting

Image quality is excellent. The camera captures images in DNG format, which makes editing in software like Lightroom or Capture One Pro a snap. Native ISO is 160, and goes up to 1250; one can “pull” ISO to 80 with some loss of contrast.

The camera uses a 37.5 megapixel Kodak CCD. It is 45x30mm, with pixel pitch of 6 microns. It offers true 16-bit capture. Frame rate is 1.5/second.

The 70mm lens provided classic Leica depth and dimensionality, great contrast and color. There are no discernable edge distortions or other gremlins to be seen in this image of a red flower against a blue sky.

Autofocus is fast and quiet, as are the mirror and shutter. I did not experience any hunting or missed focus using AF. The camera operates shooting to a memory card, or tethered via USB 2.0. Given the file size, a fast card is a good idea.

Shooting in the studio was a good experience. We used Profoto strobes, using a beauty dish, a background light, and fill light. Images were clean at ISO 160, with great color right out of the camera. Images were tack sharp on every shot.

This image was taken shooting against the roll up door at the back of the studio:

Sarah Muldorfer, the model shown here, is a “natural” and easy to work with. This was almost a grab shot – we were trying out different looks and she struck this pose. We worked this photo shoot at the Santa Clarita Valley Center for Photography.

This next shot was unplanned; Sarah was sitting at the makeup table during a break. The lighting is provided by incandescent bulbs. The camera was set to 320 ISO, with the lens wide open at f/2.5 so I could shoot hand-held. The image is remarkably sharp, with great bokeh. Noise was a bit of an issue in shadow areas, but that’s to be expected – most MF digital cameras aren’t totally clean at higher ISO. Noise does become an issue for me at 640 ISO.


A quick note before moving on to a still life image: I used the Leica flash on-camera to photograph my niece’s graduation. Set on TTL, camera and flash worked very well, in spite of a darkened room and a very dark background. Nailed the exposure – good thing too, as I had one chance at it.

This orchid was photographed in-studio. Note overall sharpness (I was pushing diffraction issues at f/16), and the absence of artifact or aliasing along the edges. The bottom petal is too bright, but that’s my fault, not the camera’s.

Orchid - Studio Shot With Leica S2 © David Saffir

To wrap up:

A pro’s camera, with great design and build quality, and faithful to its Leica heritage.

At $22k for the camera body, and $5-7k+ for the lenses, not a trivial investment. Having said that, we all know that Leica gear holds its value remarkably well; you won’t see “used car price syndrome” with this camera or its lenses.

Lenses currently available include the 70mm f/2.5, 35mm f/2.5, and the 180mm f/3.5. The 120mm Macro is reportedly due out within a month. The central shutter versions of the lenses for this camera are reportedly planned for release in August or September.

If you are interested in the S2, I suggest you get in touch with David Farkas at Dale Photo and Digital. Here’s a link to the Dale Labs Leica Shop page; their phone number is 1-800-327-1776. I thank them for the loan of the camera for this test.

David and his team have prepared a series of HD videos about the S2. Very thorough, covering all aspects of the camera and its operation. They expect to release the videos soon, so keep watch on the web page linked above.

Link to New Workshops

_________________________________________

Disclosure: I did not receive any compensation in connection with this camera test, or for writing this review.

Photography Quote of The Day – June 30

Flycatcher Feeding at Dusk

“When words become unclear, I shall focus with photographs. When images become inadequate, I shall be content with silence.” – Ansel Adams

New Workshop with David Saffir, Studio Lighting 101: Portraits

Venue: Santa Clarita Center for Photography, Two evening sessions: July 14 and 21, 2010, 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM
Cost is $109 if registered by 7/7/10, $119 after. Pre-registration is recommended.
(Phone registration call 661-904-2092; link to registration form at the end of this post.)

This two-evening, focused workshop teaches an uncomplicated, efficient, professional process from start to finish. Learn how to successfully pre-plan your photo shoot, put your lighting setup together to match a particular “look”, capture your image successfully, plan your editing in Photoshop, and create an image you can successfully print or provide as a digital file. Scroll down to read more….

Model Sarah Muldorfer

We’ll take you step by step through the process:

- Pre-session planning meetings with customers, clients/models, and others

- Identifying a look or theme, including use of printed examples, design ideas, and the like

- Pre-shoot coaching, with focus on making diplomatic suggestions for wardrobe and makeup

- Studio preparation, including backdrops, choosing a lighting style, and two or three light setups for portraits

- Classic vs. non-traditional lighting, using main and accessory lights

- Setting up your camera for successful capture

- Three-step fast and efficient editing in Photoshop

- Providing proofs to customers/clients

- Preparing for printing or publication

Hands-on work will include lighting setup and shooting.

You’ll leave the session with a list of action items in hand that will help you improve the quality of your work and improve your profitability!

To enroll, follow this link or call 661-904-2092

Lighting Diagram

Great Class Last Night – Nik Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro

Had a very cool class on Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro last night at SCV Center for Photography. As always, Mel Carll, the owner of the studio, was a great host!

We explored these applications along with some advanced layer techniques in Photoshop – the possibilities/flexibility are really impressive – so is the improvement in productivity and editing speed! (both applications work with Photoshop, Lightroom, and Aperture).

I’ve written reviews of both applications, plus Nik Silver Efex Pro (for Black and White). Here’s the link for the Viveza/Color Efex article, and the link for the Silver Efex Pro article.

You can download free trial at Nik Software.

LAX at Night, © David Saffir

NEW – Upcoming Leica S2 Field Test and Review

We’ll be getting a chance to field test and review the Leica S2 37.5 MP medium format digital camera in about ten days. Stay tuned for results and details. (the Medium Format saga continues!)

Image Courtesy of Leica Camera


Review, Nik Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro 3.0

Since my review of Silver Efex Pro by Nik Software, I’ve been working with some of the other software packages offered by Nik, specifically Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro 3.0. Like Silver Efex Pro, these applications offer great flexibility and control during image editing. They are compatible with Photoshop, Lightroom, and Aperture. In this article, I’ll provide an overview of the features and benefits of both.

Viveza 2 offers sophisticated both  global and highly selective editing of image characteristics, including but not limited to color, saturation, contrast,  brightness, structure, saturation (RGB or by channel), etc. And as I’ll explain further on, the edits you perform can not only be placed on a Photoshop layer, but individual edits in the application itself are non-destructive, and can be changed at will.

Color Efex Pro offers over 50 pre-designed filters, with an incredible range of image enhancements, conversions, and special effects.

I’ll cover some of the fundamentals in Viveza 2, using Photoshop. Clearly it’s not possible to explain all the combinations and nuances in this space. If you really want to get a grip on what’s possible with the software, it’s advisable to take a live workshop, like the one I have coming up on Wednesday, June 9, 6:30-9:30PM at the SCV Center for Photography. Click on the link, and scroll down a bit – the listing is in the left hand column. You can also call 661-904-2092 for reservations. (Credit cards cheerfully accepted.) Fee is $69.

(FYI, the software works in CS5 in 32-bit mode, except for Viveza 2 for Windows, which can be used in 64-bit mode. Upgrades are planned some time around mid-year.)

I’ll be using one of my recent images, taken a month or two ago during the explosion of Spring wildflowers in California.

Before Launching Viveza 2

Now I’ll go to Filters, and launch the application. The first screen looks like this:

Opening Panel

The original image is shown in the center. One can change this view to twin before/after images, or to a single image split to show the same. Here’s a closeup of the control panel on the right:

Control Panel

Note the button for “Add Control Point” (more on this later), the global controls for brightness, contrast, saturation, and structure, and at the bottom, a drop-down for levels and curves (new in Viveza 2)

Levels and Curves drop-down

I’m accustomed to making these adjustments on individual adjustment layers in Photoshop; now you have that option here. These controls operate globally as one would expect.

Now I’ve made a levels and curves adjustment, and set the screen for a side by side comparison:

Levels/Curves

I’m conservative in these adjustments, but you can see the difference in overall contrast, and in some degree, a bit of increased saturation.

You can also add what Nik calls “Control Points”, which are highly versatile tools – a Control Point (CP) can be placed anywhere in the image. Click on the CP button in the Control Panel, mouse over and left click to place the CP.

A basic CP looks like this:

Note the yellow button at the top – that slider controls the size of the CP, and how much impact it has on the image. Underneath it are control sliders for Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, and Structure.

Control Point Size

You can click on the small triangle at the bottom of the Control Point to reveal more options:

Now we can see controls for shadow adjustment, warmth, R-G-B, and hue. These adjustments are also available in the Control Panel.

This is one of the core concepts to this software. You can apply CPs singly, or in groups. A CP can be duplicated through the command <alt> – left click.

Once you’ve made your adjustments, you have the option of clicking OK, which will apply your changes on a new layer, or Brush, which will create a new layer with a black layer mask. You can then paint on the mask with a white brush to reveal your edits.A small Viveza panel will be present in your Photoshop screen – when finished editing the layer, click “apply”, and voila!

Later on if you want to make changes in your edits, re-open Viveza and work away. When you click “Apply” the changes will take effect.

This review just scratches the surface. I could write a book, but not today. :)

Viveza provides impressively easy-to-use, highly flexible tools for editing images in Photoshop, Lightroom, or Aperture. Used appropriately, it can really improve and speed up your image editing.

I’ll be brief in my remarks about Color Efex Pro 3.0. Can you say, “indispensable”? It is one of my all-time favorites.

The application offers over 50 filters, presets, and such. One of my favorites is “Brilliance/Warmth” which can do wonders for landscape images. Here’s the menu in the opening panel (looks much the same as Viveza, but this menu appears on the left):

Filter and Pre-set Menu for Color Efex Pro

Also note the tabs, which organize the menu choices by task or image type: Portrait, Landscape, Stylizing, and Traditional. You can also organize your favorites under a separate tab.

One could develop many of these “looks” in Photoshop, but in the majority of cases this application makes things easier and faster – and frequently better. Here’s a side by side of Brilliance/Warmth:

Before and After - Brilliance/Warmth

I think that’s pretty cool!

NOVEMBER 16: THERE IS NOW A SPECIAL NIK SOFTWARE PURCHASE DISCOUNT CODE FOR READERS OF MY BLOG. TYPE “D S A F F I R” IN YOUR ORDER FOR 1 5 % DISCOUNT. LINK TO NIK

Are Medium-Format Cameras Overtaking 35mm DSLRs for Pro Photography?

Are Medium-Format Cameras Overtaking 35mm DSLRs for Pro Photography?

Some of us are old enough to remember when medium-format was king in professional photography. If you weren’t shooting medium-format (MF), you frequently ran in second place.

Image quality was (and is) the reason to use medium-format. With film/sensor formats about three times larger than 35mm, and lenses to match, MF delivers the goods in color and black and white, in digital or film.

I’ve been convinced for some time that serious DSLR photographers should take another look at MF – particularly with the price convergence that we are seeing. One can now buy a lightly used or new MF camera with a 22MP back and lens, for about the same price as one of the high-end Nikons or Canon camera bodies! For example, the Mamiya AFDIII, and the Leaf Aptus 22MP back fall in this price range.

This may be something of a subjective judgment, but I feel there is a noticeable difference in the appearance of images captured with 35mm cameras and their MF counterparts. Some things I notice are sharpness, resolution, acutance (what is this?), dimensionality, subtleties in tone transitions, and detail in shadow/highlights.

The cameras are modular, which means that one can change viewfinders, choose different backs, or change film or digital sensors on the fly. On some jobs, I will switch my Hasselblad H-series camera from digital to black-and-white film and back again. Similarly, I switch from a horizontal viewfinder to a look-down viewfinder with the push of a button. I even have a Polaroid back (but we won’t go there right now).

In the past, MF cameras were all metal, and quite heavy. Many MF cameras are now made from polycarbonates and have magnesium frames, so the weight is not a big deal any more. I remember reading somewhere that MF is now the “Goldilocks” of the camera world – not too small, not too, big – just right!

A 6×4.5 negative or digital sensor ratio is much easier to crop to 8×10 aspect ratio as compared to 35mm. Additionally, most MF cameras have leaf shutters, which will handle flash sync at much higher speeds than any 35mm I know of. This is ideal for wedding photographers, for example, who need to use fill flash on moving subjects outdoors.

And what about stock photography? Many of the higher-end stock houses have been steadily raising their requirements for native resolution on the camera used to take the shot. This weeds out a great many “weekend warriors”, but it also pushes the upper tiers of the market toward high-res cameras. Nothing like a 135 MB file to get the attention of a photo editor.

Can a photographer get eight frames per second out of a MF camera? Or capture good digital images at ISO 6400? Of course not. I don’t think MF will take over from 35mm format for editorial work any time soon. But medium format will continue to improve, and give 35mm DSLRs a run for their money. Keep an eye on this category; better yet, try one in your work.

use this link to see my recent review of the Mamiya DF camera and DM56 digital back.

"Blue Bowl"