”Simple can be harder than complex: You have to work hard to get your thinking clean to make it simple. But it’s worth it in the end because once you get there, you can move mountains.” Steve Jobs
Tag Archives: Apple
Apple iPad Arrives: Great Tool for Photographers
Went to the Apple Store in Northridge to pick up my new iPad. The first thing I noticed (aside from the number of people) was that Apple had created TWO lines: one marked “Reserved” and the other for all other purchasers. Interesting.
One of the people from the store walked down the line with a clipboard, checking in the “Reservistas”. Another handed out bottles of water to everyone. Seemed like many extra employees were on hand.
The Reservistas got to go inside first, in groups of 5 or so. A number of tables were set up for demos, question and answer, etc. This was a great idea, and the workstations were packed.
Note that the other store displays for computers, iPods, and such were nearly deserted.
Purchasing was painless – except for my wallet, of course. I also purchased the VGA adaptor and the “book” cover. I had previously ordered a small carrying case from Amazon – it is actually a netbook case, but works just right.
The iPad hardware works flawlessly. It is fast, easy to use, and the screen is colorful and contrasty. My only significant complaint, as with all glossy screens, is that reflections are a nuisance. I really like the way the image flips regardless of orientation – and that this can be locked in place if needed. Great idea.
Movies play smoothly, and look great. I can’t think of a better personal movie viewer out there.
The speaker is small. Interestingly, the sound quality is better than I expected. Sure wish they included two!
Note that not all computer USB ports carry enough voltage to recharge the iPad – including my not so new Macbook Pro. So you’re restricted to a newer computer, or the wall charger.
The iPad book reader is, in brief, a category killer. Comfortable, quick, intuitive, and backlit! Very comfortable to hold with the book cover on. Not to be mean-spirited, but why would anyone consider a lesser device?
Apple says there’s thousands of books available, but I disagree. The selection of desirable downloadable books available is thin, thin, thin. A lot of so-so titles, with some good ones too. I’d really like to see this improve, and quickly. Having some of the classics available free is great fun; I’m reading the Jungle Book right now. Cool.
Syncing is done through iTunes. I’m hoping that one of the app developers comes up with a workaround for this, so the iPad can be used as an external drive as well. Working through iTunes could be better in many ways (are you listening, Steve & company??), particularly file format compatibility and ease of use. The usual suspects, folks.
Photographs are imported through iTunes. iTunes does process the image so it can be digested by the iPad. As far as I can tell, it leaves identifying metadata (such as IPTC) intact. This is a must-have for serious photographers; I just won’t send an image to a client without it. Also seems to leave the embedded color profile intact, too. Whew.
The photo app included with iPad will create slideshows from a stack, and include music too. Slide timing controls and music controls are rudimentary. I purchased the Keynote app, and I’m going to try this next.
Portfolio presentations were the number one reason I purchased an iPad. The first two I created look GORGEOUS. I love ‘em. This is going to be a great tool for working with clients.
The Mail app is the best yet from Apple. Nuff’ said.
Here’s my big thing for today: save your money on third party Apps for a while. I’ve purchased a couple, and they are either buggy or are outright junk. I’m not touching them for a long time – already threw away ten bucks or so – no more. The Apple Apps seem fine (Keynote, for example), and Apps from major players like NPR are also fine.
All for now. Last tip: if you don’t need networking or 3G turn em off; they do suck down the charge on the battery. And run, don’t walk, and get an iPad. A great tool for photographers.
Check out new workshop for creating and printing your Black and White images.
Apple iPad Recap-First Look-Start Price $499
Just finished the press conference. Here’s some key points for your review:
Web Screen Shot Courtesy of Apple
Some key features of the iPad:
Apple is describing this as an experience as much as device
“It comes alive in your hands”.
User interface is clearly descended from iPhone and iTouch. Should be easy
transition for those familiar with them.
Screen is backlit OLED
Available in WiFi and 3G
Approx 9.5 inches x 7.5 inches, 0.5 deep, glossy touch screen, approx 1.5 lbs weight
Important: claimed viewing angle of 178 degrees.
Sizes: $499 16gb, 32gb $599, $64gb 799, add $130 for 3G models
Availability: wifi 60 days, 3g in 60 days
On screen keyboard, and attachable keyboard, built in microphone, speakers
Looks like excellent book reader – could put Kindle in the peanut machine?
Can view two pages at same time.
iPad Internal Keypad
iPad Folder
Runs very fast compared to iTouch/iPhone
Foldable case which looks cool.
Optional external keyboard also provides USB port
Looks like it runs one app at a time – to be verified
The stand can also be flipped around to prop the iPad up for viewing (cool!)
Battery life claimed is 10 hours in use
Runs a number of apps, iWork, iPhoto, email client, internet, many more apps.
Good mail attachment support (diff file formats)
Connects to projectors
Last but not least: What I don’t know is if there will be image editing apps beyone iPhoto available for this device that will help photographers. Also don’t know much about color quality of the screen – which looks great so far – for related work.
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NEXT POST: Selective Color Adjustment In Photoshop: Give your landscape images new depth, dimensionality, and nuance of color.
images in this post © Apple Inc.
Nikon Pro Guide to the D3 Camera
I’ve been searching around for a clear, concise document that explains some of the more sophisticated (perhaps I should say “complex”) features of the D3 and its cousins. I came across a very good document published by Nikon, that among other things, provides useage guidelines for the autofocus options on the camera. Here is a link to the PDF: http://tinyurl.com/kmt5av
link to my web site: http://www.davidsaffir.com
Screen to Print Match for Photographers
Most people have experienced an issue with screen to print match at one time or another. Some have told me that they have just given up on the idea. But screen to print match can save you a lot of editing time, and wasted paper making proofs (you know: proof-tweak, proof-tweak, etc.)
Actually, this is an issue that can usually be solved without breaking a sweat. Think of this article like a cooking recipe – put it all together, and cookies turn out fine!
Examples of Issues
1. It is hard to see the screen in my office or studio
2. Colors I’m familiar with don’t look right on the screen
3. Screen brightness does not match print/print looks too dark
4. Screen shows highlights and/or shadows differently than the print
5. Some colors differ on screen vs print
6. All the color in the print just looks wrong, compared to the screen
Discussion
1. It is hard to see the screen
This is a big cause of headaches and fatigue.
I suggest that if you need glasses or an updated prescription, get them. Bright light in the room, whether ceiling lights, windows, or other sources, can cause reflections on the screen or cause you struggle with differences in brightness. I use a room that has a big window with a set of louvered blinds. Not expensive, and effective.
If you are using a laptop, you should know that most laptop screens are just not good enough for editing color in digital photographs. The color palette is too narrow. Also, the screen has a small sweet spot, or angle of view – if you move around a bit the appearance of color and/or contrast may change. If your budget permits, get a decent flat screen display and plug it into the laptop.
2. Colors I’m familiar with don’t look right on the screen
First, you usually get what you pay for. A bottom-dollar low end screen probably can’t get the job done.
Next, the screen has to be calibrated – this means adjusting the screen so it shows color accurately as possible. The tool used for this is a display calibrator; the one I use is the iOne Display by X-Rite. (I discourage use of the display calibration software included with Mac OS or Windows OS. They improve things, but not enough for editing photographs).
Display calibration is one of the easier things to do. Open the box, follow the directions, and voila!
I have some recommendations for settings. Some may disagree here, but these work for me. You will see the adjustment screen for these if you choose the “advanced” option in your calibration software.
Use color temp of 5500k, or 6500k, depending partly on which color space you use. Adobe 98 white point is 6500, ProPhoto RGB is 5500.
Use luminance of 80-90 cd/square meter if you need to get as close as possible to paper white; some people find this is too dark, and go with 100-120c cd/sq mtr.
Use gamma of 2.0 or 2.2. Using 2.0 is a bit unorthodox, but I prefer it. Your mileage may vary.
When you set up your display like this, it will look kind of dull compared to its previous state.
By the way, most new displays come new out of the box set up to much higher color temperatures, close to 200cd/sqm, gamma native or 2.2. That’s useful in an office where one is working on email or similar stuff; near useless for photography.
You can, of course, experiment until you find a set of adjustments that suit you. These have worked for me for a long time.
One last thing: capture RAW whenever practical, and work with your images in Adobe 98, or ProPhoto RGB, rather than sRGB. The only reason to keep an sRGB workflow is if you are a wedding or event photographer and your lab requires it.
3. Screen brightness does not match print
The screen will always look brighter than the print. Put another way: “the print looks too dark!” Think of the screen like a lightbox with a big transparency on it – it gives off light. The print can only reflect light.
The answer comes in three parts: Control your room lighting, use the screen brightness settings provided above, and control the light used to view the print (view the print in indirect daylight, gallery halogens, or a dedicated light box).
4. Screen shows highlights and/or shadows differently than the print
Two of the biggest reasons in the matching screen-vs-print category for this are 1) a cheapo screen, and 2) a non-calibrated display.
Other causes usually involve editing techniques used in Photoshop or another editor, when preparing to print, or in settings used in the printing software dialogue box. That’s a subject for another article.
5. Some colors differ on screen vs print
First, think about display calibration. Got to do it – at least once a month.
Next, think about setting up Photoshop so you can actually see what the printed image’s colors will look like. This kind of preview is called “Soft Proofing”. Here’s an excerpt from an article I wrote on the subject:
You can set Photoshop to display a simulation of how your your print will actually look, using the paper/ink/printer combination you’ve chosen. This is often called “soft proofing”.
The benefits? You can see, in real time, what color impact your editing will produce – in other words, each time you adjust color you’ll see what it is going to look like in the final print. You can also choose different soft proofing setups to see the impact of changing papers, or even changing printers!
With your image open, click View>Proof Setup>Custom, as shown below:
The next dialogue box that appears will look like this:
Note that just below the tag “Proof Conditions” there is a title “Device to Simulate”. This designates a drop down menu that looks like the screen shot shown below. You will see a list of the ICC profiles that you’ve installed, either along with a printer driver, or manually. Scroll down and choose the one you want.
Once you have chosen the correct profile, you can save this as a pre-set for your convenience. Click on Save, and name your pre-set, and click save again. Click OK to close this out.
For most photography purposes, Perceptual rendering intent is fine. Enable black point compensation, and leave the others alone – don’t need them. As long as “Preview” is enabled, your calibrated display will show you what your image is going to look like in print!
6. All the color in the print just looks wrong, compared to the screen
The biggest reason this happens to me is that, somehow, the display calibration goes haywire. This usually happens after a system crash.
The first thing to do is to check the printer – is the right paper loaded? Are you using the right printer settings? Have you performed a print head check for clogged nozzles?
If the problem continues, reboot the computer and recalibrate the display. Sometimes settings files go haywire, or get corrupted. If the display is over three or four years old, and the problem persists, try another monitor on the computer and see if that solves the issue. You may need a new display.
Additional tips and tricks:
Remember that you can always change your display calibration back to the way it was, or re-calibrate using different settings.
Color editing that seems impossible late at night will usually be easy after a good night’s sleep.
Use manufacturer’s ink, not a substitute, in your printer.
Experiment with different papers, but often the manufacturer’s paper will look the best.
If you have trouble with color on a print, try making a print from an image that has done well before. If that also looks different, it is the printer or the printing settings.
Change the background on your Photoshop screen to grey or white.
Let the screen warm up for 30 minutes before you start work.
When you are printing, try using ICC profiles for printing instead of printer managed color.
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